The Rock
Smith Rock, a 641-acre park, is located in central Oregon. The rock in the main area is welded tuff, consolidated from molten ash 30 million years ago. I like to describe it as tiny pebbles held together by plaster of paris. Along the Crooked River, in the upper and lower gorge, are basalt cliffs as well.The Climbing
There are over a thousand climbs at Smith Rock, both sport and traditional, up to 600 feet high. Besides having one of the most difficult climbs in the country ('Just Do It' - 5.14c), it also hosts an array of easier and challenging climbs. For example, over 75 three and four star climbs are rated 5.10. Most of the routes are one pitch and a 60 meter rope is recommended. Unless otherwise noted, this online guide refers to the first pitch of all multipitch routes. Many of the sport routes in the main area are known for there high first bolt so if you have a stick clip, bring it, otherwise you can probably borrow one from the multitudes of sport climbers carrying them about. To avoid the crowds, head to the Marsupials or the gorge (both are east of the bridge). If you're looking for cracks, again, the gorge offers plenty of varying grades and quality. Check the routes page for a visual parade through over 200 of Smith Rock's finest climbs.Timing
The best times to visit the park are autumn, spring and if you're lucky, winter too. You can find yourself sweltering in 90+ degree (fahrenheit) heat in the summer or shivering in 45 degree (fahrenheit) shade in the middle of winter. The main area is south facing and gets sunlight most of the day. The back side, (the west side) receives afternoon sun. Check the weather before you plan your trip to Smith.Fees
There is a day use fee of $3. You can purchase a 12-month permit for $25, or a 24-month permit for $40. These 1 and 2 year permits are good at all Oregon state park day-use areas.Camping
There is a bivouac area just south and west of the main parking area (check the map!) where, for a very reasonable small fee, camp sites are available within walking distance of your vehicle. The bivy area includes picnic tables, toilets, showers and a communal outdoor cooking area with a few picnic tables. A 'walk-in' camping fee will get you all this for $4. Tent camping fees vary. Contact the park for details.There is also camping available at Skull Hollow, otherwise known as 'The Grasslands'. Located about 7 miles east of Smith Rock, Skull Hollow is somewhat primitive (it contains only 2 pit toilets) and can be pretty noisy during the weekends when inconsiderate dolts show up and think everyone wants to go to sleep listening to their guitar strumming and conga drum jam sessions (you're wrong if you think this and you know who you are!) I've been there when local idiots drove into the campground at 2am shouting at the "f^cking hippies" to wake up. But that was a long time ago.
Food and Drink
The town of Terrebonne offers the Redpoint store for gear, a grocery store for supplies, Java Rock for expresso, the Sunspot and La Siesta for dining out. Redmond, 10 minutes south of Terrebonne, offers more and Bend, 30 minutes away offers still more. My current dinner suggestions include:- the Terrebonne Depot, owned by climbers, located by the railroad tracks in Terrebonne
- the Redmond brew pub, located by the Fred Meyer supermarket in Redmond
- and the Pine Tavern in Bend for the best hamburger in the world.
Lastly...
If you visit, respect the other climbers, the residents in the area, the flora and fauna. Be considerate! Make an effort to leave no trace of your visit and to keep it as pristine as it was when it was formed. You wouldn't dirty up your own living room, would you?!!!