Mt. Stuart - West Ridge
1. Mt Stuart from Ingalls Pass
2. Mike at Ingalls Lake
3. Goats at Ingalls Lake
4. Goats at Ingalls Lake (2)
5. Baby goat at Ingalls Lake
6. Mt Stuart from Ingalls Lake
7. Mt Stuart from Ingalls Lake (2)
8. Mt Stuart from Ingalls Lake (3)
9. Mt Stuart from the north side of Ingalls Lake
10. Eric on Stuart Pass heading to the top of the shoulder
11. Mike and Dennis up the trail from Stuart Pass, now on top of the shoulder (they are very small, just right of center)
12. Eric at the base of the main approach gully after the traverse from the shoulder
13. Eric, Dennis, and Mike heading up the main approach gully
14. Dennis and Mike continuing up the main approach gully
15. Eric, Dennis and Mike continue heading further up the main approach gully. Gully veers left here.
16. Getting close to the top of the main approach gully
17. Mt Rainier from almost at the top of main approach gully
18. Dennis and Mike nearing the top of the main approach gully
19. Mike (foreground) and Dennis and Eric (center, on block) nearing the top of the approach gully. Peak of LJT at top of photo.
20. Mike approaching the top of the approach gully
21. Neil at the notch at the top of the approach gully.
22. Eric and Dennis traversing (climber's) right from the approach gully, across the second gully, just below Long John Tower
23. Long John Tower. We ascended via the 4th class route, up the chimney to very loose, large rocks.
24. Dennis coming up the Long John Tower chimney with Mike behind him
25. Another shot of Dennis coming up the Long John Tower chimney with Mike behind him
26. Just above the black arrowhead in the center, we passed over the ridge into this gully, from LJT
27. Black knob above the black arrowhead where we passed over the ridge into the next gully from LJT
28. Dennis passing under the West Ridge Horn heading towards the tunnel at the top of the ramp above his head and to the right
29. The tunnel next to the detached block. It's at the end of the lower ramp, bottom center.
30. Just passed the first tunnel, Eric and Dennis skirt along a ledge heading for the ramp across the gully, up to the second tunnel.
31. Neil just after passing through the tunnel and doing the belly slide down the corner ramp.
32. Mike just after passing through the tunnel.
33. Eric getting ready to go through the second tunnel to his right (under the large boulder up the ramp.)
34. Eric heading up the blocky offwidth chimney (lower left). Behind the photographer is a rib we crossed from the second tunnel and a bit of snow.
35. View of the West Ridge Notch and summit block
36. View of the West Ridge Notch and summit block (previous two pictures stitched).
37. We came from the other side of this rib, just by the glacier snow, after going through the second tunnel.
38. Dennis coming up to a ledge below the West Ridge Notch
39. After going up the ridge to a difficult section, Dennis downclimbed, crossed the gully, and came up to a ledge (previous 2 photos stitched.)
40. Dennis working his way to the West Ridge Notch. There was a tricky hand traverse, with only smearing for feet, just below him.
41. Mike after the tricky hand traverse. This is on the way to the West Ridge Notch
42. What may be a view of the ramp to the West Ridge Notch. It's possible the actual notch is above this. I don't recall exactly.
43. Mike coming back around from the north side to the south side after going through the West Ridge Notch
44. The summit (pictures stitched [but not very well.)
45. Eric going up the summit pitch.
46. Eric heading up the final pitch left of the slab. There was a fixed pin we clipped a sling to.
47. Mike, just before heading up the final pitch.
48. Mike being belayed by Dennis, up the final pitch. Eric on the right. We are within 15 feet of the summit. Ingalls Lake is in the upper right.
49. Mike at the summit.
50. Eric (left) and Dennis at the summit.
51. Neil at the summit (with a Sports Illustrated 'Beyonce' issue found in the Mazamas trip box!)
52. View of the false summit from the true summit.
53. Dennis descending the summit toward the false summit.
54. Descending the Cascadian Couloir. One of us is the dot in the center of the photo by the boulder.
55. Eric on the Cascadian Couloir.
56. Dennis descending the Cascadian Couloir.
57. Eric (and Dennis just slightly ahead of him) on the Cascadian Couloir above the knoll of stunted trees.
58. Looking up the couloir with plenty of couloir to go but little daylight!
59. Campsite below Ingalls Lake.
60. Campsite with Ingalls Peak in the background.
61. Mike performing preventative maintenance.
62. Mt. Stuart from the camp site.
63. Dennis, Eric and Mike (L to R) at the campsite.
64. Dennis, Mike and Eric leaving base camp. Ingalls Lake With Mt. Stuart in the background.
65. Ingalls Pass from the north of the Ingalls campsite area.
66. Marmot on the trail.
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Neil Shargel
Copyright © 2007 Neil Shargel
Mount Stuart Trip Report
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Owens River Gorge