Monday, October 30, 2000.  The drive through Big Sur was everything I'd hoped it would be. The sky was blue when I woke up so I got an early start. I stopped for breakfast at the Ragged Point Resort and relished my hot-from-the-oven muffins in the magical setting: butterflies and hummingbirds on one side and a view of dramatic cliffs and pounding surf on the other.

Along the way north I kept pulling off the road to take in the fabulous scenery. In some spots I was able to get close to the water and just sit and watch the surf. After a while the clouds appeared to get lower and I found myself driving in and out of fog banks. I remembered that one of the first words I learned when I studied Russian at the Defense Language Institute in Monterey was "too-MAN" (fog). It rained on and off, too, but that was okay.

Tuesday, October 31, 2000.  Started out the day by driving out to the Point Lobos State Reserve, a wonderful nature preserve that is surrounded by pounding surf or gently lapping waves on three sides. I spotted otters "rafting" in kelp beds, harbor seals sunning themselves on the rocks, and sea lions "arfing" for who knows what reason. I wish I could have spent the whole day there, but the Monterey Bay Aquarium was waiting for me.

The aquarium is very impressive, probably the best I've ever visited. Enormous tanks recreate the undersea world of Monterey Bay. One has a couple of concave portholes that allow you to stick your head into the tank, without getting wet, of course. There is a touch pool where you can pet a bat ray -- soft and slickery.  The keeper was feeding them and I got a chance to hand feed them shrimp. 

Wednesday, November 1, 2000.  Reluctantly I left Monterey today. I'd liked to have spent more time there. Guess I'll just have to return some day.

I drove US 1 all the way to San Francisco. By the time I arrived, the sky had become overcast and there was a chill in the air. I spent a few hours at the zoo. I had decided to stop there because they have four older chimps. (Just needed a chimp fix.) The gorilla exhibit, with a multi-generational family, was my favorite.

Thursday, November 2, 2000.  A hard driving day. I didn't cover that many miles -- as the crow files -- but on the ground I drove a lot. US 1 in Northern California has some very twisty stretches. Hairpin turns so sharp that the recommended speed limit is 10 MPH in places. And what views!

Friday, November 3, 2000.  A thick fog hung over the redwood forest when I left Garberville. The fog continued all the way to Eureka, but the sun began to break through by the time I got to the Sequoia Park Zoo. I was there to see Bill, a 54-year-old chimpanzee who has been in Eureka since 1957.

Although he used to have a companion, Bill has been by himself for about five years now. He really looks quite good considering his advanced age and solitary circumstances. I made a play face and he responded. I was able to talk to some staff people and learned that Bill gets lots of enrichment thanks to a group of volunteers from the local college. Too soon I had to say goodbye to this special chimp and continue north.

Saturday, November 4, 2000.  The trip ended not with a whimper but with a BANG.  Just north of Gold Beach my left front tire self-destructed. I suddenly found myself driving on the rim. AAA came through and sent someone out to change the tire. (I had purchased a full-size spare before starting the trip.) It could have been worse. At least it didn't happen on the narrow and twisty US 1.

Back on the road -- and a little nervous about what might happen next -- I took my time getting home. The fog and drizzle that had shrouded my disabled car lifted by the time I reached Bandon, so I took a walk on the beach. I considered spending one more night in one of the coastal towns, but I had already psyched myself into getting home. Instead I drew it out and decided I would drive the final leg -- Lincoln City to Beaverton -- in the dark. And it gets really dark on that route.

Arrived home at about 7:30 PM, exactly two months from the day I started out. Great trip. Would do it again in an instant.