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Day 21Monday, September 25, 2000. Didn't need my sunglasses all day, but I did need a rain coat. As I drove from NASH-vul to KNOX-vul (that's how they pronounce all the "-ville" cities) I passed in and out of showers, in and out of fog banks, and in and out of autumn. In some areas there was barely a hint of autumn in the foliage, but in other areas the leaves were very clearly changing. I lost an hour when I crossed into the Eastern time zone and didn't arrive at the Knoxville Zoo until after 1:30. It was drizzling. I asked at the front desk whether there was a chimpanzee keeper I could talk to about the new exhibit, and there was! She gave me lots of information about the exhibit design and identified the five chimps for me. (I may have some pictures to post later.) I started to visit the rest of the zoo but finally had to give up when the deluge started. I was drenched. Dinner with friends and turned in late, as usual. From here I head south and will adjust my trip to spend less time in Atlanta and more in Florida. |
LinksImagesChimpanzee Lu sticks out his tongue like an Olympic sprinter |
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Day 22Tuesday, September 26, 2000. An easy drive to Chattanooga, but traffic is getting thicker. As I move east, everything gets closer -- the towns, the trees, the cars. I almost skipped Chattanooga's Warner Park Zoo. According to their web site, the entire zoo is about the same size as the Kansas City chimpanzee exhibit. But I remembered that the little zoo in Pueblo, Colorado, had turned out to be a nice surprise, so I hunted down Warner Park. (It is not even listed in the AAA tour book.) Once again I asked about speaking to someone about the resident chimpanzee (they have a lone male) and was given the royal treatment. Got lots of information about the new chimp exhibit that is under construction and the plans for bringing in five chimps from Fort Worth. (It sounds like they may be getting the three adults who were born in Oregon, including one of Coco's daughters.) I also got a tour of the entire zoo. They are doing some very creative exhibits with the little space they have. Am spending the night in Dalton, Georgia. |
LinksImagesDesign of this exhibit area blends in with the train yard behind the zoo
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Days 23 and 24Wednesday and Thursday, September 27 and 28, 2000. Lesson for the week: Stay away from big cities. Lots of traffic on the way to Atlanta, but I easily found the zoo. Spent a few hours there, mostly watching the gorillas and chatting with local volunteers. Wonderful to see a gorilla troop with babies, youngsters and adults. I also got a good look at Ivan who is in a much better place than the shopping mall that housed him for so many years. I also had no trouble finding the Language Research Center, where the bonobo Kanzi and others are the subjects of language studies. After my meeting there, I started to explore and hunt for a motel. This place is just too big and too congested for my tastes. I have no idea how to get around or how to figure out where I am. And the clogged roads have such narrow lanes. Sigh. I finally decided to get on the interstate and head for the outskirts of town. I'm spending the night next to I-75 (sounds like I'm in the middle of I-75). Thursday I went to the zoo again. I toured the rest of the exhibits in the relatively small zoo and watched the gorillas for a long time. Then it was back into the maze that is Atlanta. Amazingly, I found the Yerkes Primate Research Center at Emory University for my late afternoon appointment. I was determined to get outta town, so I slogged my way through rush hour traffic and stopped for the night at a roadside motel. Tomorrow I have a long drive to Jacksonville. |
LinksImagesGorilla Ivan in his new home The largest of several gorilla habitats
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Day 25Friday, September 29, 2000. Today was a driving day. Got off I-75 and drove a quieter route to Jacksonville. Although it probably took a little longer, it was a more economical route. You see, the interstate around these parts is lined with big billboards advertising all sorts of places to spend money. I pulled off at a clothing outlet and at a pecan boutique and made some very good buys but figured I'd better get away from temptation -- and away from all the big trucks and aggressive drivers. Just after I crossed into Florida the sky darkened and within a few minutes the clouds began dumping. Visibility was so bad I pulled off into a parking lot for about 20 minutes. Staying with friends this weekend. |
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Day 26Saturday, September 30, 2000. Went to the Jacksonville Zoo today but didn't get to see it all. It's not that the zoo is so big -- it's not. Once again the sky opened up. Now, you might ask why someone from Oregon would be deterred by rain, but we're not talking about simple precipitation. This is a run-for-the-high-ground deluge. Some of the pathways flooded and I had to walk through ankle-deep puddles on my way to find cover. I did get to see the great apes, including a pair of bonobos (sometimes called pygmy chimpanzees). Jacksonville also has 3 common chimpanzees. The layout of the naturalistic exhibit allows them to hang out far from the public, but I did manage to spot them all. When the rains started, I found refuge near the chimp exhibit and got to see the male doing a display, running around in the rain and even charging the window where I stood. One of the females remained perched high in a tree while the rain poured down. I tried to wait out the rain, but it just wouldn't stop. Someone told me it was a Nor'easter and it could go on for hours. I finally gave up and returned to my friends' house where it was not raining. Later in the afternoon they took me on a driving tour of the area, including the ocean beaches where the surf was unusually rough and many of the houses are impossibly lavish. |
LinksJacksonville Zoological Gardens Images |
Day 27Sunday, October 1, 2000. Departed Jacksonville and drove US 1 down to Barefoot Bay where I am staying for a couple of days at my father's house. It's the halfway mark of the trip and this is a welcome opportunity to regroup, repack and write letters. The weather is warm but windy. Drove in and out of showers all afternoon. I'm keeping my eye on Hurricane Keith, which could be slamming the Gulf just when I plan to be driving through the Florida Panhandle. Wildlife alert: Saw a river otter trying to cross the highway today. Fortunately, it turned around before getting squished. |
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